Owner's Guide

Owner's Guide

Stone Cactus Waterfalls

Stone Cactus Warranty

May this original sculpture provide you with many years of waterfall enjoyment!


  • Equipment: The reservoir system including the lights, pump, tank, riser, float, and concrete lids is covered with a 90-day guarantee
  • Sculpture: Stone Cactus water sculptures are covered by a five-year limited warranty to the original owner. The warranty covers the structure's form. If a problem developed within this time period, we’ll repair the sculpture. This warranty does not include travel or shipping costs nor does it cover damage from natural or man-made disasters, misuse, improper installation, modifications, improper use, freezing or damage from moving, maintenance neglect, calcium, or algae.
  • Finish: The finish has a limited warranty for a period of two years against stain separation from the cement surface. This does not include normal weathering, fading, color changes, mineral bleeding, mineral scaling, or rusting.

Owner's Guide

Just a few notes in the beginning…

Your new water sculpture needs very little ongoing care to keep it performing at its optimum level. Although your sculpture was run and adjusted in the studio, there may be some final adjusting after installation.


The sculpture needs some “off time” during the first year to let it breathe and season. This will lock in some of the interesting color patterns and details I have stained onto the surface. Do not run the sculpture 24 hours a day until after the seasoning period is passed. I recommend that you turn them off through the late night which should allow full dry down before the next 'on cycle' in the morning.


Water flow at the tips may vary during this initial start-up. Small debris may accumulate behind the internal screens in the arms. There are several ways to clear any of these restrictions if needed. Once your tank has settled, this should stop.


Use only my equipment for the best performance. Enclosed water reservoirs are recommended and will require less maintenance. Cover the tiles with at least two inches of rock to properly seal and protect the water.


Each sculpture has a water control valve for controlling the amount of water at the tips. A higher setting will splash more and be more affected by wind. You may want to keep your water valve exposed until after you find the best flow rate so you can cover it after the flow is set.


In extreme weather conditions, it’s best to turn your system off and enjoy the sculpture until conditions impose. Excessive spray may empty out of your tank before the next water cycle if you are on low-pressure water.


If the water level is too low or the pump screen is restricted, the tallest arm will slow down and then stop first. Check the water level and then the pump screen. If the lower arms slow or stop while the tallest arm is flowing high, there is a restriction behind the internal arm screens. See “water flow” for more information.


The finish of your Stone Cactus will slowly change over time. This “seasoning” or “patina" is normal and will include fading, oxidizing, color changes, and rusting. These changes are considered normal and will enhance the aged stone finish of your sculpture. During off times, the finish will be lighter or more opaque in color, and during on cycles, the color will be deeper and richer.

Daily operation and care

After your system is operating smoothly, periodic care is all that is needed. Watching for water changes will let you know if the system needs any attention. You will enjoy your waterfall more if you automate the water and power to the system. A 24-hour outdoor timer can have your sculpture on before you wake up and off after you go to bed. Water filling from your drip system works great, but it needs to be adjusted each season to maintain water levels in the tank. Adjusting may need to be done twice a day during peak summer conditions depending on the sculpture size and duration of the operation. Potted systems without automatic water filling will need daily filling so pumps do not run dry. Remember to shut off your system if weather conditions are unfavorable.


Safety


Never leave small children unattended near water. Do not allow any climbing on or moving of the sculpture. Please be careful not to stand on the reservoir cover tiles.


Water treatment


A planted Stone Cactus operating daily and covered properly should not require any chemicals to keep the tank water clean. Some systems may need a periodic shock treatment (chlorine or bleach) to keep any algae from developing above ground. This burns out any algae and dissipates quickly. I do not recommend any algicide treatments as they could change the sculpture’s surface colors.


Potted systems will need small residuals of chlorine both indoors and outdoors to maintain water clarity. Break a three-inch pool chlorine tablet into small dime-sized pieces. Add a chip near the base under your rocks weekly or as needed. Daily operation and water replacement will minimize the residual needed. Indoor systems can use a small amount of bromine as a sanitizer to avoid a chlorine smell. 


Vacation Time


Turn the power off until you’re back. A seasonal shutdown should have the power and water turned off. Draining is optional for inground systems.

Water Flow

Water Flow at the Tips 

Your Stone Cactus has special water balancing controls to adjust the water flow from each arm. These microvalves are located about six inches down inside each arm except for the tallest arm. During initial start-up or cleaning, fine debris can get past the pump screen and accumulate behind one or more of these valves, screens, or diffusers as we call them. 


After the tank water settles, this should stop. There are simple ways to clear the valves if the water flow slows. I've listed several methods that work well. Although each of these diffusers can be opened to clear the screens, it's best to use one of these methods first. 


The lowest arms will be affected most since they have the most back pressure. The tallest arm will show an increase in water by getting the additional water from any restricted arms. If the tallest arm is slow, it usually means low water or the pump screen is getting restricted. 


With the water running, try these methods first to clear your screens: 


  • Pump your thumb up and down over the hole.
  • Use an air duster with a small rubber cork (Ace): drill a small hole, insert a straw, milk shot down the arm, and release. 
  • Spray jet (water down) the arm that is affected with the system running. The single jet nozzle for your hose is very effective.
  • Use a straight 10-inch piece of coat hanger wire to lightly bump the diffuser cap. Turn the wire a little as you bump. The tall arm has no valve.

Water Flow continued

If you can't clear an arm by these methods, then you can clear the screen by opening the valve. To do this, you need to use a long tool that can fit inside the valve top. Use a long Phillips head screwdriver that is very thin, or modify your hanger wire by hammering the end to a very small flat screwdriver end.


Insert the tool until you feel it hit the diffuser, then move and turn it until you feel it drop into the set slot. Turn the valve clockwise to open. Turn clockwise for one full turn, then bump the tool to help clear the debris.


After the debris has cleared, turn the valve back to the original setting or counterclockwise one full turn. 


You must be careful as the valves can be stripped or damaged if they are overclocked or bumped too hard. 


Note: Debris or the restriction can pass between the arms. It may be necessary to open the clean-out plug if all else fails to dislodge the restriction. This plug is located opposite the pump connection side on the sculpture base. Remove the one-inch plug, turn on your system, and force water via a jet spray from your hose down each arm. Turn on the system, and let the water flow out of the plug opening. Close the clean-out plug afterward.

Glossary

A helpful glossary of terms

Algae: The most common types are green, black, and pink. Inground systems with proper rock coverings will need very little or no sanitizing to control algae. Potted systems will need a small residual of an oxidizer for controlling green algae in the pot. Break a three-inch pool tab into small pieces (dime size), and add them under the rocks near the sculpture. Daily running and water replacement will improve water conditions.

Arm restriction: If the tallest arm runs slow or is off, check the water level or pump screen. All other arms running slow or off will result from a restriction behind the internal screen. Use a 12-inch-long straight hanger wire to tap lightly on the screen top while the system is running. Water or air pressure will work but may transfer debris to another arm.

By-pass: Each sculpture has a valve control for water which can be turned to divert water through the by-pass fitting. The by-pass keeps the pump running without restriction and can be used to drain the reservoir.

Cleaning: Attach a length of ¾-inch hose to your by-pass fitting barb, then with fresh water coming in from your garden hose, turn your valve to bypass and start your system. Balance the flow between the hose and discharge. Let it run until your water is clean.

Draining: See “Cleaning” above (but don't replace the water). Bottom water may need a sponge to remove all water. Remember not to let the pump run dry.

Evaporation: Many conditions will affect evaporation rates. Hot temperatures can evaporate one or more tanks during peak summer temps. Adjust the float higher, slow the water flow, or run the system at selective times for off-peak conditions.

Fiberoptic cable: If your sculpture is equipped with a fiberoptic system, you will see a bundle of cables exiting at the base of the Stone Cactus. These cables cover the optic stain that carries light to the tips.

Fiberoptic systems: The fiberoptic system contains a light engine to feed light through the fiber optic cable in your sculpture. Systems run on 12-24V or 110V. All systems should be protected from direct weather conditions or water run-off.

Finish: The finish of your Stone Cactus sculpture will have a variety of colors and details to give it an aged stone finish. Surface contrast will vary from light when dry to vivid color when it’s wet. Changes will occur from weathering and use.

Float: The float included with the inground systems maintains the water level inside the reservoir. The water level should be no less than the level of the by-pass port. A small set screw is located on the side where the stem and valve arm meet. Loosen and lower the stem as needed.

Freezing: It’s best to keep your system in the off position during freezing conditions.

Hard water: Drain and refill when needed. Turning the system off during high evaporation periods will keep the mineral levels lower.

Mineral stains or bleeds: Stains are the light film or ridge line that forms from evaporation, and bleeds are minerals that form from tiny pockets in the concrete. Use an acidic concrete de-scaling solution. Lightly spray the area to be cleaned. Rinse and repeat if needed. Thick mineral bleeds can be picked off first and then cleaned.

Glossary continued

Pump care: Don't run the pump dry! Other than that, you don’t have to do much except keep the screen clean for the best performance.

Pump screen: This is the little white perforated cover on the pump side. While the pump is running, use your fingertips to clear the screen front. The cover can be removed but only with the system off.

Pump replacement: Your current pump has been sized and configured to operate with each Stone Cactus water sculpture. It is best to replace the pump if needed with the same pump.

Pump noise: Pump noise can occur from several conditions. Pumps can vibrate or resonate sound if their position is touching a hard surface. Try moving the pump away from these areas. Debris on the screen or inside the impeller will also create noise. Clean all the areas. Older pumps can become inefficient and can slowly become louder under normal conditions.

Rust: The ribs of your Stone Cactus are steel and will rust within a short time. This is normal and should enhance the weathered finish of the sculpture.

Sealing: Sealing can be applied after your Stone Cactus has been properly seasoned or in areas where cold weather extremes occur.

Seasoning: After cycling on and off for about a year, your sculpture will become “seasoned” referring to the finish changes. Oxidizing, fading, rusting, and mineral stains add to the sculpture's aged stone finish. It is recommended that your sculpture be seasoned before running the water systems for extended periods of time (15 or more hours) without an off cycle. 

Shims: Small plastic shims may have been used to adjust the level of your sculpture. Moving your sculpture may displace these shims and change the levelness of the arms. The shims will float and can be replaced after the level is reset. Place the shims between the sculpture base and the riser top.

Tiles: The concrete plate(s) that are set over the water are called tiles. These tiles are designed to support rock weight between the sculpture base and the reservoir lip.

Tile screen: Your tile screen will work to keep debris and small rocks from entering the water and pump area. The split should be centered over the access door tile. Edges should be tucked in around the perimeter before the rock covering is placed on top.

Vacation care: Unattended systems should be turned off until you return. Inground systems can be left dormant while potted systems should be drained.

Valve: Each Slone Cactus base has one or more water control valves for directing water flow. These valves turn 180 degrees from water at the tips to the by-pass.

Valve ports: The sculpture base has one-inch PVC valve ports located on the side. One will be the inlet for your pump water and the other (above or below) will be the by-pass. Some units will have a third port opposite the valve that's plugged (this port is for clean-out or future water needs).


Inground Reservoir System

Installation Steps

The tank is 29 inches round by 13 inches deep, so you will need a 32-inch round hole 10-12 inches deep. Set the tank on a level bottom (no rocks). The float side should face your water source. Low- or high-pressure water will work.


Set the special riser block across the bottom. Level the top of the riser block. Fill the tank with water up to the float.


Connect the water line and float. Replace the soil using three-inch lifts with water. Compact lightly so you don’t distort the shape. Finish the dirt to the bottom edge of the tank.


Center the sculpture on the riser coupling (the base will drop down). Position the sculpture for view.


Set the pump with its screen side near the water control valve of the sculpture base. The access tile will be located here. Attach the hose with fittings between the pump and the sculpture base.


Make sure the pump cord and hose are clear of the float arm assembly.


The bases with top valves will use the bottom port for the pump hose, and the bases with side valves will use the top port.


Plug the pump in to test it.


Set the (three) tiles in place around the sculpture. A mark indicates the touching sides on the large tiles. They should sit even with the outer edge of the tank. Move the sculpture if the tiles are not lined up. Remove the tiles and straighten the sculpture (if needed) with two shims.

Installation Steps continued

The bases with top valves will use the bottom port for the pump hose, and the bases with side valves will use the top port.


Plug the pump in to test it.


Set the (three) tiles in place around the sculpture. A mark indicates the touching sides on the large tiles. They should sit even with the outer edge of the tank. Move the sculpture if the tiles are not lined up. Remove the tiles and straighten the sculpture (if needed) with two shims.


After the sculpture is straight and centered, replace the tiles with the access door over the pump and controls.


Place the unwashed rock to the edges of the tiles with the filter screen tucked down between. Hide all lines and cables.


Place about two inches of washed rock over the screened tiles to cover them (about two five-gallon buckets).


Blend into the unwashed rock areas for the final planted look. Remember where your access tile is located!


Installation Work Sheet

Preparing for Algae Removal 


Depending on the severity of the bloom, treatments will vary. Catching algae in the early stages will not require a tank or rock to be cleaned. Algae that are covering most arm surfaces will need a full service clean out after treatments are complete. Conditions that created the perfect bloom should be changed slowly to prevent future growth. 


Killing the algae on the surface of the sculpture comes first


Remove as much loose algae as possible, add bleach (depending on the tank size, use the below guide for how much bleach to add), and add it in the evening after the birds have roosted. Run the system for two to four hours depending on the amount of algae coverage. Bleach with no scents or softeners is best.

Tank Size to Bleach Ratio

Tank Size - Amount

 

 1 Gallon - 1 tablespoon

 3 Gallon - 4 tablespoons

 8 Gallon - 1/8 cup

15 Gallon - 1/4 cup

25 Gallon - 1/2 cup

Killing the roots comes next


In the morning, spray the sculpture down with a jet nozzle from the hose. Keep the system off for the day, and in the evening, repeat the bleach treatment and cycle.


If the algae condition was extreme, the rocks and tank will need to be cleaned as well. It's recommended to have the arms flushed and the valves adjusted to remove any internal debris. Check once a month during hot months for early growth (the shady side at the base of the sculpture). If you see spots of algae present, add one treatment to stop the bloom.


Do not run your system 24/7 since the system needs a dry-down period. Adequate rock coverage and size are needed to keep the tank dark. Ground cover and tree debris will require more frequent treatments as seasonal drop accumulates in the rocks and the tank. Review Water Flow at the Tips section above.

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